Mt. Pumori (7,145 m), often called “The Daughter of Everest”, stands majestically on the Nepal–Tibet border, just 8 kilometers west of Mount Everest. It is one of the most beautiful and technically demanding 7,000-meter peaks in the Himalayas. The Pumori Expedition offers a perfect challenge for experienced climbers who wish to prepare for an 8,000-meter peak such as Everest, Lhotse, or Makalu.
The mountain was first ascended in 1962 by a German-Swiss expedition led by Gerhard Lenser, and since then, it has become a popular training climb among high-altitude mountaineers. The route to Pumori follows the classic Everest Base Camp Trail through picturesque Sherpa villages such as Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche.
From Pumori Base Camp (5,220 m), climbers ascend through three higher camps before reaching the summit. The climb involves steep snow slopes, exposed ridges, and challenging ice sections, making it a rewarding yet technical climb. The panoramic views from the summit — including Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and Cho Oyu — are among the finest in the Himalayas.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m). Transfer to the hotel and pre-trip meeting.
Day 02: Rest and preparation day in Kathmandu. Expedition briefing, gear check, and final documentation.
Day 03: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m – 45 minutes). Trek to Phakding (2,800m; 3–4 hrs).
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m; 5–6 hrs). Enter Sagarmatha National Park.
Day 05: Acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar. Optional hike to Everest View Hotel or Khumjung village.
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche Monastery (3,860m; 5–6 hrs).
Day 07: Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche (4,243m; 5–6 hrs).
Day 08: Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (4,930m; 5–6 hrs).
Day 09: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5,140m; 2–3 hrs).
Day 10: Trek from Gorakshep to Pumori Base Camp (5,220m; 3–4 hrs). Set up base camp and acclimatize.
Day 11–28: Climbing Period – Acclimatization and summit push of Mt. Pumori (7,145m).
The South Ridge Route is the most commonly used and safest route for climbing Pumori. It is a mix of snow, ice, and rocky sections with several steep slopes ranging between 40° and 60°. Technical climbing skills, rope fixing, and crampon use are essential. Due to its exposure to avalanches and weather changes, climbers should have previous experience on 6,000m peaks like Island Peak, Lobuche East, or Mera Peak before attempting Pumori.
Experience Required:
The Pumori Expedition is a serious yet rewarding challenge for mountaineers aspiring to step into the world of technical 7,000m Himalayan peaks. With its proximity to Everest and stunning Himalayan panorama, climbing Pumori not only tests endurance and skill but also offers a deeply spiritual and life-changing experience.
Whether you are preparing for Everest or seeking a high-altitude climbing achievement of your own, Mt. Pumori (7,145m) is an exceptional choice for professional climbers looking for both adventure and glory.
Choosing the best time for the Pumori Expedition is one of the most important factors for a successful summit. Since Mt. Pumori (7,145 m) lies in the Everest region of Nepal, the weather conditions are similar to other high Himalayan peaks. The ideal climbing seasons are Spring (April to May) and Autumn (September to October) — both offering stable weather, excellent visibility, and favorable climbing conditions.
Spring is considered the best and most popular season for the Pumori Expedition. During this time, the weather is relatively stable, temperatures are moderate, and the skies are generally clear. The snow conditions are favorable for setting up fixed ropes, and there’s less risk of avalanches compared to winter. The mountain views are stunning, with colorful rhododendron forests blooming along the lower trekking trails.
Advantages of Spring Climb:
Temperature:
At Pumori Base Camp, temperatures range from -10°C to -15°C, while at higher camps, it can drop to -25°C or lower during summit pushes.
Autumn is another excellent time for climbing Mt. Pumori, with dry weather, calm winds, and clear skies. After the summer monsoon, the air becomes crisp and clean, offering breathtaking visibility across the Everest region. Trails are less crowded compared to spring, making it an ideal season for climbers seeking a quieter and more peaceful expedition experience.
Advantages of Autumn Climb:
Temperature:
At the base camp, temperatures range from -5°C to -12°C, while summit days can experience -20°C to -30°C. Proper gear and layering are essential for warmth and safety.
A: Mt. Pumori (7,145 m) is located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, near the Nepal–Tibet border. It lies just eight kilometers west of Mount Everest and overlooks the famous Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar viewpoint. The mountain offers some of the most spectacular views of the Everest massif.
A: The Pumori Expedition is considered a technical and challenging climb, suitable for experienced mountaineers. The route involves steep ice and snow slopes (40°–60°), mixed climbing sections, and exposure to high-altitude conditions. Prior experience on 6,000m peaks such as Island Peak, Lobuche East, or Mera Peak is strongly recommended before attempting Pumori.
A: The best time for the Pumori Expedition is during Spring (April–May) and Autumn (September–October).
A: The full expedition typically lasts 34 days, including arrival, trekking, acclimatization, climbing, and return to Kathmandu. The actual climbing period from Base Camp to summit and back usually takes around 18–20 days, depending on weather and acclimatization schedules.
A: Most climbers follow the South Ridge Route, which is the safest and most established route to the summit. The ascent involves setting up three higher camps above Base Camp:
A: At 7,145 meters, Pumori stands slightly lower than Cho Oyu (8,188 m) and Everest (8,848 m) but higher than Ama Dablam (6,812 m). It is often seen as a perfect stepping stone for climbers preparing for 8,000-meter expeditions.
A: Yes. The Pumori Expedition requires previous experience on technical alpine climbs above 6,000m. You should be confident using crampons, jumars, ascenders, fixed ropes, and ice axes. Physical fitness, endurance, and mental resilience are crucial for success.
A: Essential equipment includes:
A: The Pumori Expedition cost generally ranges between USD 8,000 to USD 12,000 per person, depending on the level of service, group size, and logistics. The price usually includes climbing permits, domestic flights, accommodation, meals, base camp services, and professional Sherpa support.
A: Yes, altitude sickness is a potential risk due to the extreme elevation. A proper acclimatization schedule, gradual ascent, hydration, and the use of preventive medication (like Diamox) help minimize risks. Experienced guides constantly monitor climbers’ health during the expedition.
A: Yes. Satellite phones and walkie-talkies are used for communication between Base Camp and high camps.
A: In Kathmandu, climbers stay in comfortable hotels. During the trek to Base Camp, accommodation is in tea houses or lodges, while tented camps are used during the climbing phase. Meals include a variety of high-energy and nutritious food prepared by trained expedition cooks, ensuring climbers stay strong throughout the expedition.
A: Preparation should start at least 4–6 months before departure. Focus on:
A: The key challenges include:
A: Climbing Mt. Pumori is excellent preparation for Everest because it provides similar technical climbing experience, altitude exposure, and weather challenges but at a slightly lower elevation. Many mountaineers consider it the ultimate training ground for 8,000-meter peaks.
A: Absolutely. We offer custom itineraries based on your climbing experience, preferred pace, and acclimatization
Mt. Pumori lies on the Nepal–Tibet border, near Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar. The journey begins with a scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by a multi-day trek through the legendary Khumbu Valley, passing iconic Sherpa villages such as Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Lobuche, before reaching Pumori Base Camp (5,220 m).
This trek not only aids acclimatization but also provides a glimpse into the rich cultural and natural beauty of the Everest region.
The Pumori Base Camp is well-established and equipped with all necessary facilities for a full expedition setup:
Your climbing team, including guides, cooks, and porters, ensures smooth logistics throughout the expedition.
The standard South Ridge Route is used for the Pumori Expedition, offering a combination of snow, ice, and rock climbing.
The climb demands technical precision, rope handling, and stamina — making it ideal for climbers with prior experience on 6,000-meter peaks.
The best time for the Pumori Expedition is during Spring (April–May) and Autumn (September–October).
These seasons offer:
The expedition typically lasts 34 days, including the approach trek, acclimatization, climbing period, and return. The actual summit phase lasts about 18–20 days, depending on weather and fitness levels. The flexible schedule allows extra rest or acclimatization days for safety and success.
To climb Mt. Pumori, several official permits are required:
Nepal Treks and Tour handles all permit arrangements before departure.
Additionally, all climbers must follow Nepal’s mountaineering regulations, including environmental policies and waste management practices at base camp.
Climbing Pumori requires excellent physical fitness and previous high-altitude experience. Participants should be comfortable with:
The route is designed to provide gradual altitude gain, allowing proper acclimatization. Rest days in Namche Bazaar, Dingboche, and Base Camp help prevent Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).
Expedition leaders and guides monitor your health, and oxygen cylinders or portable hyperbaric bags are kept available for emergencies.
During the trek, meals are served in tea houses, offering Nepali, Tibetan, and Western dishes. At base camp and higher camps, expedition cooks prepare nutrient-rich, high-energy meals to maintain stamina.
Typical meals include rice, pasta, soups, energy bars, and dehydrated foods for high camps. Proper hydration is a key focus throughout the climb.
Base Camp is equipped with satellite phones and VHF radios for communication between camps and Kathmandu.
Some expeditions also provide Wi-Fi access at Base Camp for limited connectivity. Reliable communication ensures safety coordination and weather updates during summit periods.
Your expedition is led by an experienced IFMGA/UIAGM-certified climbing guide, supported by skilled Sherpa climbers, cooks, and porters.
Safety is always the top priority — guides are trained in mountain rescue, high-altitude medicine, and rope management. Regular weather briefings and route assessments ensure climbers ascend only in stable conditions.
The Pumori Expedition cost typically ranges between USD 8,000 and USD 12,000 per person, depending on the group size, logistics, and service level.
The package includes climbing permits, domestic flights, full board during the trek and expedition, professional guides, Sherpa support, and all base camp facilities.
Optional services such as personal Sherpas, oxygen, or upgraded hotels can be arranged upon request.
Due to its technical nature, Mt. Pumori has a moderate success rate compared to other 7,000-meter peaks. The main challenges include:
All climbers are encouraged to follow the Leave No Trace principle. We ensure:
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